Timing procedure on points Iron Bullet
Posted: Tue Jan 07, 2020 6:42 pm
In the past I used the timing procedure written by Gurunandan on the Cybersteering Yahoo group site, however, since Yahoo messed with the site, the written procedure is now hard to find. So, I am documenting the procedure I use to time a Iron Bullet points ignition system.
I just use the piston TDC finder tool to get to 0.8 mm BTDC. (If you don't have a TDC finder tool, Tim can order one for you, every Bulleteer should have one.) Then it should start, if it kicks back, it is advanced too far or has lean mixture. I then use the ping time method to dial it in. The info below is the procedure I got from Brnkd some years ago. Make sure you are on the compression stroke when you start this.:
"Set the point gap to .015". Back up the crankshaft until the points are closed
To reset the ignition timing, rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction, until the piston is just before TDC" on compression stroke "and the contact breaker points just commence to open. ( The best way to check the opening of the points is to switch on the ignition and crank the engine slowly until the ammeter needle just returns to its central position. The points should just commence to open at this position. Check the position of the piston, which should now be .032" (1/32" or .8mm) before TDC on the compression stroke. If you're using a TDC tool, from the indication that the points have opened, back up the engine and rotate it forward to the desired piston position, then set the points to be just opening in the position, rotating the points plate. If you are having trouble determining the precise moment the points open, you can use a piece of very thin paper (cigarette paper or some equally thin), put the paper between the closed points and when you get to the point that the paper will pull out, rotating the timing plate. When the paper comes loose that's when your engine will fire. It should happen at the aforementioned properly set timing spot. "
Following this, I will start the bike, set the idle speed to approx. 1500-2000 rpm, then advance the points plate until there is slowing of the RPMs, then I retard the points a bit and lock it down. I then return the idle speed to normal, then I take it for a ride and see if there is any noticeable "ping" or "pinking" going up hill. If none, I ride it.
Dr Snide still has is website which describes this procedure in a more seat of the pants method. See this link:
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/points.htm
or:
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/0me1st.htm
I just use the piston TDC finder tool to get to 0.8 mm BTDC. (If you don't have a TDC finder tool, Tim can order one for you, every Bulleteer should have one.) Then it should start, if it kicks back, it is advanced too far or has lean mixture. I then use the ping time method to dial it in. The info below is the procedure I got from Brnkd some years ago. Make sure you are on the compression stroke when you start this.:
"Set the point gap to .015". Back up the crankshaft until the points are closed
To reset the ignition timing, rotate the crankshaft in the normal direction, until the piston is just before TDC" on compression stroke "and the contact breaker points just commence to open. ( The best way to check the opening of the points is to switch on the ignition and crank the engine slowly until the ammeter needle just returns to its central position. The points should just commence to open at this position. Check the position of the piston, which should now be .032" (1/32" or .8mm) before TDC on the compression stroke. If you're using a TDC tool, from the indication that the points have opened, back up the engine and rotate it forward to the desired piston position, then set the points to be just opening in the position, rotating the points plate. If you are having trouble determining the precise moment the points open, you can use a piece of very thin paper (cigarette paper or some equally thin), put the paper between the closed points and when you get to the point that the paper will pull out, rotating the timing plate. When the paper comes loose that's when your engine will fire. It should happen at the aforementioned properly set timing spot. "
Following this, I will start the bike, set the idle speed to approx. 1500-2000 rpm, then advance the points plate until there is slowing of the RPMs, then I retard the points a bit and lock it down. I then return the idle speed to normal, then I take it for a ride and see if there is any noticeable "ping" or "pinking" going up hill. If none, I ride it.
Dr Snide still has is website which describes this procedure in a more seat of the pants method. See this link:
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/points.htm
or:
http://www.snowvalley.20m.com/bikes/0me1st.htm