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By Mrunderhill1975a
#33
I decided to test the features of this board, so I am posting my experience with an exploded rotor. This was previously described on Classic Motor works Forum.
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By Tim
#34
Mrunderhill1975a wrote: Fri Nov 15, 2019 4:42 am I decided to test the features of this board, so I am posting my experience with an exploded rotor. This was previously described on Classic Motor works Forum.
What's your experience?
User avatar
By Tim
#41
Tim wrote: Fri Nov 15, 2019 4:14 pm
Mrunderhill1975a wrote: Fri Nov 15, 2019 4:42 am I decided to test the features of this board, so I am posting my experience with an exploded rotor. This was previously described on Classic Motor works Forum.
What's your experience?
Still nothing, the suspense is killing me! :P
User avatar
By Mrunderhill1975a
#43
I was riding about 25 mph, just shifted into 3rd gear and it went pop. Not much noise, no scrapping noise of warning, just let loose and locked up. I have 34,000 miles on the bike, I was hoping the woodruff key would have sheared off, and left the crank intact, but apparently the woodruff key is stronger than the crank end. The majority of the rotor is in 1000 pieces, with the exception of the steel center of the rotor. The rotor sheared off about 1 inch of the crank stub, just the length of the securing rotor nut. I wiggled that rotor center off the remainder of the crank stub end, but it is slow going, the woodruff key or other debris were binding on the remainder of rotor.

I looked at some U-tube vids and found a description of repair of small Japanese engines by cutting the jagged edge of the stub, then drilling and tapping the center of the stub in order to insert a bolt. This is real possibility, not just wishful thinking!
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=cr ... 5D6BBF2CF1

I decided to attempt to center-drill and tap the crank and secure the new Lucas rotor with an 8mm 8.8 bolt. I am pushing the envelope into new territory here, but since the crank spindle is on the way on the slow boat from Mr H, I thought I would give it a try.

The rotor sheared off about 1 inch of the crank stub, just the length of the securing rotor nut. The end of the crank stub was stuck in the rotor nut (I will post photos later). It occurred to me that the conical detent in the end of the crank could be used as a centering jig for a pilot hole into the remainder of the crank stub. Sure enough, I took the rotor nut and the broken end of the crank and center drilled it with a 1/8th inch drill bit on my 1971 JC Penny's drill press. The crank material is very soft and drilling went very well, very straight. With this center hole through the broken crank/rotor nut. I was able to use this assembly as a drill guide inside the remainder of the hexagonal rotor core (see photo). With this assembly, I was able to successfully drill a 1 inch deep pilot hole into the center of the crank stub. I drilled a 6.7mm hole into the crank stub such that I can tap that hole for an 8mm bolt.

Drilled out the crank stub with a 6.7 mm drill, set up the rotor nut on the vise and tapped it with an 8mm 1.25 tap. Once I had the rotor nut tapped, I wrapped it with two winds of masking tape to take up any lash between the rotor nut and the remaining "hex center" of the exploded rotor. I then carefully began to tap the actual rotor stub. I used three different taps, one pointed, one less pointed and one blind hole tap. I cut about three threads depth, then backed off and used a magnetic screw driver & oil to collect the chips of metal. From what I gather on the web, failing to clear the chips regularly while cutting the threads in a blind hole is main cause of tap breakage. I went slow, it took about an hour to tap threads 1 inch into the crank stub. All went well. My two inch 8mm bolt went in nicely. I then slipped a Lucas rotor onto the crank stub, inserted the rotor nut into the hole, then threaded in the 8mm bolt and washer to secure the new rotor/nut assembly. I found the new 8 mm bolt head protruded 2 mm farther into the primary case and was interfering with the primary cover. I then ground off approximately 2 mm from the top of the bolt head and it seems to clear. I filled the primary case with 200 ml oil. and kicked it over several times to listen for any scrapping, hearing none, I switched on the power, fuel and it started on the third kick. I let it idle for ten minutes waiting on another explosion, but all went well, ammeter showed a normal charge. I then took it around the block, everything sounds fine.

I ran the bike for about 15 miles, changed the fluid and then ran it for another 50 miles. I will post a photo showing the shims needed to fit the Lucas rotor (which is about 5 mm thinner than the Indian rotors). You will be able to also see the file marks where I skimmed 2 mm off the head of the new 8 mm bolt.
I will post photos when I find a way to reduce the file sizes which are over 1mb each.
Last edited by Mrunderhill1975a on Fri Jan 31, 2020 10:57 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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By Tim
#44
Mrunderhill1975a wrote: Mon Nov 18, 2019 7:47 pm I will post photos when I find a way to reduce the file sizes which are over 1mb each.
That is one heck of a story! How big are your pictures? I'll see if I can increase the limit.
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By Mrunderhill1975a
#45
The photos are large (1mb). I need to find a program that reduces the number of pixels to reduce the total size. There was at one time a word program on the yahoo RE site. I will play with that and see if I can get them reduced.
User avatar
By Mrunderhill1975a
#46
Here are a few small pixel photos. We will see how this works.
Attachments
Add description1000 piece rotor
Add description1000 piece rotor
IMG_48502small.png (456.38 KiB) Viewed 2940 times
Add description This is the exploded rotor.
Add description This is the exploded rotor.
IMG_4849jsmall.png (412.04 KiB) Viewed 2940 times
User avatar
By Mrunderhill1975a
#47
Hex center of the exploded rotor and the broken stub of the rotor shaft in the securing nut. I placed the rotor nut in the remainder of the rotor hex center, then using the JCPenney drill press, I drilled a pilot hole into the remainder of the crankshaft stub. I then placed this centering tool onto the broken crankshaft stub and it allowed me to center drill the crank stub. Once I had a pilot hole drilled with a 1/8 bit, I then enlarged it with a 6.7mm drill. I marked the 6.7 mm drill with tape such that I would not go deeper than 1 inch.
Attachments
Drilling the crank shaft
Drilling the crank shaft
Drilling the crank shaft.png (260.53 KiB) Viewed 2940 times
Centering tool construction
Centering tool construction
IMG_4854Centering tool .png (433.36 KiB) Viewed 2940 times
Hex center of exploded rotor
Hex center of exploded rotor
IMG_4853RotorCentersmall.png (547.62 KiB) Viewed 2940 times
User avatar
By Mrunderhill1975a
#48
After drilling a 6.7 mm hole one inch deep on the broken crank shaft, I then tapped the crankshaft stub through the Rotor nut. I went slow, not wanting to break the tap. Used three types of tap, one pointed, one less pointed and one blind hole tap. Cleaned the hole after each three threads. The crankshaft metal is relatively soft and drilling and tapping was fairly easy. Everything went well and the 8mm diameter, 1.25 pitch bolt went into the newly tapped hole like butter. By the way, I used a 8mm diameter bolt to secure the new rotor because the crank shaft is approximately 13 mm diameter, and if I would have used a thicker 10 mm diameter bolt, that would have left only 1.5 mm diameter ring of the crankshaft. I decided to play safe and go with the smaller bolt.
Attachments
Tapping the rotor shaft
Tapping the rotor shaft
Tapping the rotor shaft .png (509.58 KiB) Viewed 2940 times
User avatar
By Mrunderhill1975a
#49
Here is the photo of the new rotor held in place using the 8mm bolt drilled and tapped into the crank stub. The new rotor is a lucas manufacture, and is approximately 5 mm narrower than the Indian Rotor. Thus, I had to install a few shims to take up the gap. When I installed the bolt and replaced the primary cover, I found this new bolt head was rubbing on the cover. I then used a file and ground off about 2mm of the bolt head allowing clearance with the cover. I have ridden this bike for approximately 4000 mile since the repair, and, knock on wood, it seems to be working fine.
Attachments
New Bolt installed.
New Bolt installed.
rotorNutSmall.png (462.72 KiB) Viewed 2938 times
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