A Royal Enfield forum for the people

[Street_Kleaver]

Hi guys. I'm Ben from Queensland, Australia. Background is Hot Rods, Kustom Kulture and few custom bikes over the years. Been riding and racing bikes for 25 years. Mainly Enduro and the odd motocross but always had a soft spot for British and classic motorcycles thanks to my late grandfather.
Mechanical Fitter and Boilermaker are my trades, so it goes somewhat hand in hand with my hobbies!
My inspiration is drawn from the 50s and 60 and the tradition Rocker/Ton Up/Cafe racers of that era.

2004 Bullet "E" 500 with 5 Speed Box.

The current specs of it thus far.

Hitchcocks Accralite 535cc +20 piston.
Hitchcocks Competition Valve Kit.
Ported and polished head, roof of the valve bowls shaped to a old publication for Bullet heads.
Valve seats opened up to suit new valves.
Henry Price "R" Cams.
Alloy Barrel.
Hitchcocks Steel rod, roller big end.
All Bottom end bearings replaced with Japanese bearings.
Genuine Mikuni VM32.
Modified Rectangular airbox (larger intake ID) all fully seal TIG welded with DNA filter.
Pazon Electronic Ignition.
Hitchcocks larger pump discs, spindle and worm gear.
The rocker feed pipe lower single section has been replaced with a larger ID pipe to take advantage of this.
A "Bun Breather" style Breather system and separate timing chest Breather filter all with non return valves
5 speed box.
Hitchcocks 5 plate clutch kit.
Short bottle silencer is straight through with a 2in stainless perforated tube with fiberglass packing.
Gearing is 19/38.
Completely re-wired the whole bike and updated the loom where it was needed along with swapping the bullet connectors for Deutsch plugs.
LED lights all round.
Converted the AC circuit that runs the headlight to DC with a extra Rec/Reg with a capacitor inline to smooth the LED headlight bulb. The load on the alternator is very low and it's turned out to be a very reliable system.

A heap of other small continual things I've forgotten to mention!

Day I got it



Where it's at now.

[Street_Kleaver]

Fast forward to now.



My Bullet is now running Hitchcocks 90023 racing High Performance cams . Pictured at the front. I absolutely love the power delivery these things produce! I was giggling the whole time!

Along with the Hitchcocks 90023 Cams are the 90052 competition valve kit. Ported and Polished Head, seats oversized to suit the new inlet larger valves H's Push Rods and Samrat Rockers.
535cc +20 High compression piston. (fresh bed in rings)
Alloy Barrel.
Compression wise with the old Price R cams it had 170psi.
Now has 100psi with the Hitchcocks 90023 cams, guessing to the dynamic compression with these cams.
But I can go a thinner head gasket and base gasket if need be. Currently there's a 1mm Copper head gasket. Hitchcocks offer a 0.5 copper head gasket.
Pazon Electronic ignition.
Oversize oil pumps a H's spindle.

It currently has a Mikuni VM32, which was jetted great for the stock indian cams and Price's R cams. But will be swapping to a Mikuni TM32 flat slide which should arrive tomorrow.

The issue is I'm struggling with the new cams to get a even close happy medium with the VM32.
Just to get it to idle ok I had to use a 3.5 slide and 40 pilot jet with the mixture screw 2 turns out was its happy spot. It's ok, but not ideal.

To set a good Idle it RPM hangs. To set it so it won't RPM hang, it won't idle. Throttle response is terrible. With the 2.5 Slide it was worse.
The slide stop/idle screw is still too far in so its sharing between the pilot and needle circuits just to get it to idle. Hence why I tried a leaner slide cutaway to let more air in at idle and richer pilot to drop the slide position to combat the RPM Hang.

No vacuum or manifold leaks at all.

Riding the bike. It's a absolute weapon. Come 3000rpm the thing really takes off from underneath and won't quit pulling. I was giggling the whole way. But the slow circuit is a issue and bothering me.

From when I raced motocross I know these Mikuni VM Round Slides need a strong vacuum/air signal at idle due to the slide profile doesn't flow great compared to the Flat slide.
Since I'm struggling to get the round slide to behave with these new cams, I've just ordered a Mikuni TM32.
I've had a similar issue in the past. Swapped from a VM round slide to TM flat slide and the slow circuit was a big improvement for idle and throttle response.

Searching through a lot of the older posts are a bit back and forth with information and hard to figure out what was the optimum.

The variance is :
Pilot 25-30
Main Jet 180-230
Needle - 5FP17
Needle Jet - P4 to P8 (389 series)
Slide 4.0 (standard)

Mainly mild engines with free air filter and exhaust combinations with the TM32.

Any suggestions for my new engine configuration with 90023 High Performance Cams, Competition valves and 535cc +230 High compression Piston?

I think it's pretty close to the old ACE Fireball setups.

I'm hoping the TM32 solves these issues. Especially since its a lot better in metering in its slow speed circuit.

Right now I'm building a new Stainless Steel canister. The bike came with a ACE cannister but it was butchered and broken.
The new Stainless Steel can is based on the ACE can. I've formed up with have slightly more Volume but with a built in velocity stack similar to the "Big Gulp" Detronne Air Kit for the GT535. It should be head and shoulders above my modified rectangualr airbox with DNA filter. It's got 1/4 of the box volume of the Cannister and most likely flows terrible with all it's corners and angles in there.

Here's the progress so far. The 2.25" to match the TM32 carb inlet S/S mandrel bend arrive this week along with the parts to make my trumpet.





Thanks again

Ben

[Guaire]

Hi Ben - Is there a photo missing? There's a big blank on the page.
I don't bother putting LED replacements in the turn signal/flashers. I figure it isn't worth it. But, headlight, tail/brake light, tiger eyes and sometimes instrument bulbs can all go LED. Obviously, I'm not in OZ, but I get my H4s etc. from Super Bright LEDS.
https://www.superbrightleds.com

I'm running the ACE Performance cams in my B5 at this point. Fortunately, the whole power band is one big mid-range, no low end drop off. Of course it's a different motor, a UCE with fuel injection. Hopefully, the TM will get things right.
Cheers,
Bill G.

[Street_Kleaver]

Carb is mounted. I did have it running late yesterday evening but had to stop so I wouldn't upset the neighbors.
It's a very snug fit, But actually tucks in under there better than the Mikuni VM32. From the photo angle it looks like it's touching the Fuel tank bracket but there's 5mm of room there.

Running wise, So far I can get it to tick over/idle at a reasonable speed. A little slower than I'd usually set it. Throttle response is 10x better and the rpm hang is still "just" there but negligible. It behaves better with the airbox on but so far I've been getting the slow speed circuit ballpark with the airbox off.

So with my findings with these cams that the slide needs a larger slide opening for it to idle with the Round Slide and Flat slide.
Behavior was better with the leaner slide cutaway with the VM Round slide and larger pilot jet.
The pilot jet is a lot bigger than I was using before and compared to recorded Bullets. At the moment its a 40 Pilot with the air screw out 3 turns. And it's quite happy there. Throttle response is a lot better. I can't "Blip" the throttle like a MX bike but rolling it on quickly stationary it doesn't seem to bog/cough now. Finger cross the TM is doing its thing.

I think I'll have to get the thinner copper head gasket from HMC to bump the compression up that little more just to tidy that low vacuum up.

[Guaire]

" I did have it running late yesterday evening but had to stop so I wouldn't upset the neighbors."
Shades of Burt Munro there.
There's no blank in the page today! Your set up has me missing my 2004 Sixty Five. Very nice.

[Ace.cafe]

If you have fitted the Hitchcock's Adjustable Timing Pinion with those Hitchcock cams, you might try moving it to the Advanced keyway position for 4.5° earlier intake valve closing and 4.5° earlier exhaust valve closing.
It should restore some of that lost working compression, and also fatten up the lower rpm torque a bit. Probably won't do it all, but it should help.
You really want to get that cold cranking compression test up around 145-150psi. If you have really good high octane fuel there, you can take it up higher to maybe 155-160 psi at the ragged edge.

[Ace.cafe]

PS - It will also help increase the vacuum at idle.

[Street_Kleaver]

If you have fitted the Hitchcock's Adjustable Timing Pinion with those Hitchcock cams, you might try moving it to the Advanced keyway position for 4.5° earlier intake valve closing and 4.5° earlier exhaust valve closing.
It should restore some of that lost working compression, and also fatten up the lower rpm torque a bit. Probably won't do it all, but it should help.
You really want to get that cold cranking compression test up around 145-150psi. If you have really good high octane fuel there, you can take it up higher to maybe 155-160 psi at the ragged edge.

Thats a great suggestion. A lot easier job than to striped the barrel and head off. I was thinking of deleting the base gasket and running a 0.5mm Head gasket.

It may just give the bump up in compression it needs.

By Hitchcocks site. The 9008 3 way pinion gear either advances or retards 3dgs at the cam/6dgs at the crank.

Going by the timings using the 3 pinion retarded. It brings it more in line with their "200180 Performance Cams" Timing but with the added bonus of having more lift at 0.420" inlet lift with the 90023 cams (installed in my engine) vs to 0.335" inlet lift of the 200180 cams.

As show in the attached image.

Cheers.

Ben

[Ace.cafe]

Ok, I thought it was 4.5° but it was a long time ago.
Anyway, I always deleted the base gasket and used a factory copper/fiber sandwich head gasket.
The big issue with the head gasket is that the barrel liner spigot is what seals compression and the gasket only seals the oil. If you go with the thinner head gasket, you need to also trim down the spigot to the correct height ao that it fully seats into the head recess and also crush the head gasket concurrently. If not, either the oil will leak at the head gasket, or the spigot won't seal against the head to seal compression. Also, tightening head stud nuts to try to seal oil leaks ony serves to warp the head and cause permanent problems with mating flatness.It is a dual relationship that requires both to happen correctly when you tighten the head nuts . For the factory head gasket, set the spigot height to a height that gives a .025"-.027" gap between head and barrel without any gasket in there. Be sure both surfaces are flat and the gap is even all around.
BTW, use only 20ft/lbs torque on the head nuts. It seals fine, and using more tq risks pulling the stud threads out of the engine cases. Very common.

[Ace.cafe]

Also, I still feel that your overall results would be better with the Price R Cams in the engine. I designed those cams and I know exactly what they do. You will get virtually identical max power(within 1hp) as the big Hitchcock cams and the overall rideability and street manners are miles better. I designed those cams to overcome the probs with the H Cams that were evident back then. I can go into the details, but that is the bottom line.
They have enough lift at .352"/.330" because the Enfield inlet port maxes flow at .350" lift in all iterations unless it is specifically ported on a flow bench to take advantage of the higher lift. Just the generic porting shown in old publications isn't going to do it. Again, I could go into it deeply, but the bottom line is as I said.